Best known for its saunas, islands, and incredible design stores, it’s worth lapping up the capital of cool
Helsinki is traditionally perceived as too expensive and cold. The latter is true from now right through to April. But once you dress like a native (complete with snow boots and earmuffs) you can revel in the city’s charms without the chill factor. As for the expense, Finland is no more damaging on the pocket than other European capitals. Since we are used to splashing out on home comforts, we are not likely to spark outrage at spending euro 5.70 for a drink in trendy Helsinki, especially when they serve doubles. In fact, the Nordic city can be refreshingly reasonable when you take the time to roam about.
For the eptiome of chic, the Design District is brimming with glittering galleries, fabulous jewellery stores, and chic cafes. The Esplanadi are two wide, elegant boulevards lined with sleek, seductive stores with a central leafy park serving as a catwalk for the season’s best-sellers. Glassware, footwear and warm clothing are the most tempting purchases on offer. Although it is a modern city, it is both striking and understated with a mix of neoclassical and Romantic-era buildings, cobbled streets and beautifully pruned city gardens. The citys compactness – an hour’s walk takes you from bracing beach to high-rise suburb – makes touring around a breeze. The best way to take in the whole of the city is with the Helsinki Card, which gives access to attractions and public transport for euro 33 (www.helsinkiexpert.fi). Helsinki’s treats include the hottest saunas, the slickest restaurants, a tram service with a bar and a railway station that inspired the sets in a Batman movie.
Just like every nation have their passions, the staple of Finnish living is the sauna. This is the real thing, the original hot and cold therapy with attitude, in the land where there is a sauna in just about every home. They even host the world sauna championships. For those adventurous enough to try a sauna outside their hotel, there is a plethora of public saunas spread across the city. Some of the more remote and reputable are located on nearby islands which require a taxi boat to get to. The average cost of entrance is euro 10. Finns prefer to experience the sauna naked but they are very understanding of shy and prudish visitors. Towels are allowed for beginners and the saunas are segregated for males and females. Beating yourself gently with a bundle of silver birch twigs is optional though it is meant to cleanse the skin and relax the muscles.
The steamy heat of the sauna overlaps into Helsinki nightlife as saunabars are an option (if you like the idea of stepping into one after a few drinks). Café Tin Tin Tango (tango is another big Finnish indulgence) combines sauna with cafe, bar, pastry shop, music and laundry. If you just rather a night working your moves on the dancefloor, the number of mainstream bars and nightclubs is impressive. While weekdays tend to be tame in the winter months, everyone comes out in their gladrags at the weekend to convene at the city’s trendiest nightspots. Mikonkatu is where most of the action takes place while Teatri is where the visiting celebrities mingle with the posh residents. With a restaurant, bar, club and casino, you can start and end your night here sipping on the city’s most popular cocktail – a mojito.
Finnish cuisine was once described as quite bland, which is flabbergasting to the modern day visitor. Dine in Helsinki and you sit in on a geography lesson. Cloudberries, reindeer, and Arctic char feature on many menus with the Russian and Swedish influence strongly whisked in the gourmet mix. Reindeer – which is guiltily delicious – features in many dishes but try out the Lappi restaurant for a really authentic meal. Eating out is not overtly expensive, and lunch buffets are particularly good value. Helsinki is not without its Michelin star restaurants – Chez Dominque being one of the most popular – but equally refreshing is an appreciation for reliable fast food.
For information on holidays to Helsinki check out www.helsinki.fi
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