A breath of fresh air in Norway

Is a weekend of skiing too short? Karen Creed doesn’t think so as she heads north for a refreshing workout on the Olympic slopes.

A last-minute decision, and by Friday morning I was carving down the Hafjell mountain in Norway. Apart from cheap ski deals, and just a two hour flight direct from Dublin, the attractions of skiing in Norwary are crystal clear. When snow falls this far north, it stays. And with temperatures below freezing it won’t melt.

Seductive television images of the 1994 Winter Olympics in the pretty lakeside resort of Lillehammer have done wonders for promoting Norwegian ski resorts. Expect blue skies, snowcapped mountains, bracing cold weather, and majestic views. While some skiers will argue at least a week on the slopes is needed, I (on the lazier end of the scale) tend to disagree. Two days is ample time to wake up those ski muscles and get the adrenalin rush from plundering down a few slopes. You also come home without too many aches and pains, and less exhaustion.

Norway suits a weekend of skiing not only because of the short flight distance, but more so because of the quick transfer to the ski resorts. Lillehammer is one of the most appealing, because of its Olympic status and its proximity to the powdery slopes. The small picturesque town has avoided becoming a typical tourist trap, maintaining its traditional wooden lodges while also boasting a compact shopping and aprés ski scene. Along its high street, the wooden buildings from the last century have been renovated into stylish boutiques and ski equipment stores.

Just ten minutes out of town is Hafjell, where the slalom and giant slalom events were held. As well as the fast and thrilling descents you would expect, there are gentle and scenic runs through the forest. All the ski runs converge at the base, making the area ideal for mixed-ability groups. And because the snow has a low moisture content, it doesn’t freeze, so there are no horrible groomed pistes to rattle over. There’s also a new high-speed gondola and extensive floodlit skiing three nights a week. Resorts like Hafjell typically open in November – some as early as late October – and the snow remains light, powdery and deep until early May.

At Hafjell, there are also two dedicated children’s ski areas, with a snow-and-ski-park and a crèche for two to seven year olds. There is also a great ski school, with five levels of ski school from Troll Club (ages four to six) to Hafjellclub (16 plus) and English-speaking instructors. The perk of family ski in this resort is that children under eight receive free lift passes throughout the resort if they wear a helmet (also free).

Apart from a daily sauna in the hotel, the fantastic food and wine helps to ease the sore muscles that the first skiing days generate. Restaurant Salz and Berg is distinctive to Scandinavian homes of the 19th century, and does incredibly satisfying pasta dishes to fill you up after a workout on the slopes. Nightlife in Norway isn’t cheap but service and décor are excellent. Lillehammer’s Knicker bar is one of the liveliest, while the barrel-vaulted room of Bryggeriet Kjeller is also a big attraction. For an aerial view of the city, have a cocktail in Toppen bar. Alcohol is expensive, but as Norway is not part of the EU, you can buy duty free to get warmed up before hitting the town.

Ski or not, being in the mountains is exciting in itself. You can also try the Olympic bobsleigh run with a trained driver, tobogganing on the old Freestyle course from the Olympics and night dogsledding. If you climb the giddying ski jump tower, you will be rewarded with stunning views over the valley. New this season is the world’s most southerly ice hotel in the Winter Park as well as the spectacular ice cathedral and theatre. There is even a British pub which serves beer at cheaper prices than everywhere else nearby.

The natural beauty of Norway is enough of a draw for many people but what else does the Scandinavian country have to entice visitors? Transfers are quick and easy – direct trains north from Oslo are every hour or two. And you can pre-book your ski pass and equipment. After a second day of skiing, I was back on the train to the airport and had landed at Dublin Airport on Sunday by 6pm. Not bad for a spur-of-the-moment weekend.

Ski hire/passes available in Lillehammer (www.lillehammerturist.no) and Hafjell (www.hafjellhunderfossen.no).

Karen Creed, Unravel Travel www.unraveltravel.eu

To book a ski holiday in Norway email your details to bookings@unraveltravel.eu