A holiday in Italy is invariably expensive, unless you choose a rural hideaway writes Karen Creed
While it is hard to go wrong with a family holiday in Italy, every holiday destination has its share of tourist traps. Tuscany is the perennial family favourite for a relaxed, villa-based, summer holiday. Less popular but equally beautiful is its under-stated neighbour to the west. Umbria, which borders Tuscany, is less polished and more rustic. It is a secret haven for families who seek original country holidays in the sun and half-hidden villages still largely untainted by tourism. It is less packed than Tuscany, but teeming with outdoor activities, wonderful regional cuisine, and attractive holiday rentals. While Umbria lacks a coastal region that people swarm to Tuscany for, it has some incredible lakes and countryside that lends itself perfectly to boating, swimming, biking and other refreshing activities that kids adore. It is a wonderful region of Italy to visit in summer, basking in balmy temperatures of 25 degrees plus.
The Umbrian landscape is similar to that of Tuscany – rolling hills dotted with stone farmhouses, winding rivers and pretty, olive trees, opening up to more rugged landscape towards the valley of the River Nera. There are plenty of sleepy cobbled streets to ramble through where a traditional open air market is still the highlight of the week. Italians everywhere love children, but this is particularly true in the small Umbrian villages, where the ageing population will delight in watching your children play and explore.
Amid the sleepy countryside, vibrant Umbrian life is easily found in the cities and towns. Just like it is difficult to find bad food, it would be equally hard to stumble upon an ugly town. Such is the wealth of resplendent spots that your guidebook will accurately describe beautiful, well-preserved medieval towns, situated on hilltops covered with olive groves. Perugia is the capital of Umbria, where ancient alleys veer off the 19th-century shopping promenade filled with jazz cafes and Gothic palaces. The nearby towns of Gubbio, Assisi, Trevi, and Orvieto are just as impressive.
Most visitors expect to eat well in Italy. Umbria is no different and if there is a bad restaurant, it is difficult to find. The setting of many open air restaurants is idyllic, and you won’t escape the generous offerings of home-made pasta, fresh pesto and torta al testo ( flatbread filled with cheese). Every restaurant from the most basic trattoria to the fanciest ristorante, offers the prized black truffles – spread richly over toasted bread smothered in olive oil, or grated liberally over pasta or risotto. The food is ideal for the younger palate also and restaurants are welcoming of families. Children will revel in the choice of pizzas and pasta dishes, while ice-cream is a grand affair with more flavours than there are opportunities to try each one.
Lake Trasimeno is one of the most famous landmarks in Umbria and is bursting with activity from May through to September. If there is not a festival taking place on its shores, there are sailing competitions or picnics on board extravagant boats. It is the fourth largest lake in Italy and there are also several islands within the lake, which can be reached by ferry. The area north of Lake Trasimeno has many holiday rentals but you will end up doing a lot of driving to get to the places you want to see. Umbertide, Montone and Citta di Castello are the main towns in this northern region. The area further north near Montone or Citta di Castello is the most interesting and from there you can get into eastern Tuscany easily. For a first visit to Umbria, Spoleto is a good town to use as a base. It is large with many restaurants, cafes and stores and the countryside around it is beautiful. The area south of Lake Trasimeno is also lovely. Panicale is the main town here which sits high on a hill overlooking the region. There are lots of good towns nearby to explore.
Accommodation in Umbria varies from boutique hotels to hilltop town apartments. However renovated farmhouses and farmstays are a major appeal for families on a summer holiday. This type of accommodation -‘agritourism’- has grown increasingly popular, in which owners of small-holdings let out rooms or apartments on their farmland. La Rogaia is a rustic holiday home above Lake Trasimeno, surrounded by olives groves and acres of green land. Kids will find plenty of space to roam inside and around the grounds while a swimming pool offers refreshment for those extra hot summer days.
As the sun is guaranteed to shine, the appeal of outdoor activities is huge for families visiting Umbria. There are innumerable activities to choose from like horse riding, water sports, lake cruises and canoeing. Exploring Umbria off-the-beaten path is best done on bikes through treasures that can only truly be appreciated up close. Your family adventure could begin with leisurely tours through vineyards. As you bike from village to village, through olive groves and lush green farmland, stop and get an ice-cream for the kids on the lakefront while you sip the local vino… … a true slice of the Umbrian way of life.
Five Family Activities
1. Horseback Riding
Discover Umbria on horseback. There are several riding schools that organise cross country riding in the hills above Lake Trasimeno and there is also the option of pony riding for younger children.
2. Lake Activities
Enjoy the small beaches at Lake Trasimeno where you can find a good selection of watersports, or visit Isola Maggiore, one of the three islands on the lake, with its 15th century village. It is quite magical and the restaurants around the lake offer freshwater fish.
3. Nature Adventure
La Cita della Domenica is a Natural Park just outside Perugia where you can walk through the forest and around the lakes or take a tour on the miniature train. The park also includes an adventure playground
4. Hilltop Towns
Immerse yourselves in some of Umbria’s prettiest hilltop towns. Children will enjoy taking the cable car up to the stunning hilltop town of Orvieto, perched on top of a sheer cliff. Or else Todi, with its lovely central square which is also home to the annual hot air balloon festival in July (9th to 16th).
5. Open Air Markets
Almost every town in Umbria has a weekly market. Children are sure to enjoy rambling through the stalls, where they sell everything from knick knacks, to jewellery and food.
GOOD TO KNOW
How to get there: Getting to Italy has never been cheaper thanks to low cost airlines.
Dining out: There are different types of restaurants; ristorante, trattoria or osteria, all varying in formality and price range. On the lake front you can dine under a wine pergola at Dal Pescatore or for a leisurely lunch choose Da Sauro. If you don’t want to sit down and take your time over your meal, you will find plenty of shops selling slices of pizza and panini.
Where to stay: Self-catering accommodation or farm stays are the most cost-effective for families visiting Umbria. Anywhere near to Lake Trasimeno is a good base as it will mean easy access to activities for children and numerous restaurants, bars and cafes a short stroll away. Check out www.larogaia.com for self-catering holiday accommodation.
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Great info on an area in Italy that is not as publicized. We went to Italy 2 years ago, and visited the Tuscany area – Sienna, and several other towns. I am glad to know about Umbria, and the lakes there. It will be a good place to visit when we return, and we’ll try some of your suggestions!
Jane Warren, Publisher
My wife and I have become very interested in Italy lately and will be taking in the usual Pisa and Rome.
This place looks fabulous and of great interest so we will include it in our travel plans.
We love to visit the lesser known areas as well as better known places. Thank you for the detailed information.