Under the South African Sun

Under the South African Sun

Photo: Karen Creed in Port Elizabeth, South Africa

Safari one day, the beach the next, followed by golf, then a wine tour. No wonder some people visit South Africa and never return home writes Karen Creed

It’s said that a typical South African holidaymaker is not a tourist but a traveller – the energy and vitality of the country draws people in, making them active participants. This is certainly the case if you go wine tasting in the world’s best vineyards, dine in chic Capetown, swing a golf club in Port Elizabeth or get up close and personal with the wonderful wildlife.

The perks of visiting South Africa are endless. Just two hours ahead of GMT, it means your holiday will be relatively jet-lag free. English is universally spoken and the exchange rate is extremely favourable (currently around 10 rand to €1). Its emergence as the Rainbow Nation – guided by Nelson Mandela – has finally allowed South Africa to realise its potential as one of the world’s greatest tourist destinations. The steady influx of visitors has promoted the growth of excellent B&B’s, hotels and guest houses and there is also a steady rise in the quantity and quality of restaurants.

The gateway to South Africa – Cape Town – is undisputedly one of the most beautiful destinations in the world. With Table Mountain as its backdrop and a Mediterranean climate, Capetown’s claim to hold the most dramatic setting is well justified. Tucked on the very tip of the continent this unlikely oasis stares into the southern ocean abyss with a defiant mix of buzzing restaurants, surfing beaches, an impressive waterfront district and some of the most glamorous property on the planet. A cosmopolitan and atmospheric centre, Cape Town is an excellent base from which to explore the rest of the Western Cape. A short ferry trip away is Robben Island where Mandela was incarcerated 20 years ago.

Unlike other parts of this poverty stricken continent, South Africa has some of the most luxurious travel experiences on earth. If you’ve the time, go to Johannesburg by the famous Blue train which takes 25 hours. Jo’burg (or Jozi as it’s now being referred to) is edgy and restless but it is also the powerhouse of South Africa, the source of its wealth. The city used to be short of good hotels for such a big and important city but now there are several. Take a trip down the road to Soweto township and come back via the superb Apartheid Museum. Johannesbourg is also the jumping-off point for the game parks. After landing at Johannesburg Airport you can catch a connecting flight to Mpumalanga airport, a little over two hours away. This is the quaintest airport ever, made entirely of timber and with a thatched roof.

From here visitors can take a few day safari at the Kruger National Park, home of the big five and some of the best private game lodges in the world. Safari is an incredible experience even if you are not an animal lover. The thrill of seeing animals in their natural environment is unforgettable. Whatever about the adrenalin rush for adults, it is hard to think of anything more exciting for children. It’s just like their favourite zoo but without all the annoying cages and enclosures. At Kruger Park all the big stuff is there including the big five: the lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo. Wake up to see lions rolling around in the morning sun and hippos emerge from the muddy waters in the evening as the hot sun fades. For those who imagine safari requires ‘roughing it’, think again. If you stay in the eco luxury resort of Savannah you will be introduced to the plush side of the bush. Picture giant beds, a palatial Victorian bathroom, indoor and outdoor showers and your own private deck with a plunge pool.

When you return from your morning game drive to eggs Benedict and fresh fruit, you will appreciate having splashed the cash, and again in the evening when your bath will be drawn, your bed strewn with chocolates and your hot port waiting by your bedside. There is even the option of a massage or beauty treatments at some safari lodges. While there is an excellent choice of family friendly safari tours in South Africa, some are only suitable for adults. The bigger resorts all have kids clubs and generally the mainstream places are wonderful for children. Just research well and remember to check which vaccinations might be necessary.

It’s a tough call if you have to choose between safari and beach, with most visitors trying to fit both into their South African holiday. The Western Cape is like a necklace of beach resorts, Camps Bay being one of the most prestigious, and notorious for its horseback riding. Further away in Port Elizabeth you can soak up the rays on Oyster Bay, Pringle Bay or St Francis Bay – the gateway to the picturesque Garden Route. The Sands Hotel located directly on the beach at St Francis Bay is a perfect haven after an exhausting few days on safari. This boutique hotel encourages you to do nothing but chill and fill up on fine cuisine. Nearby Jeffrey’s Bay is also worth a visit to stock up on Billabong clothing at the factory outlet and for surfers there are some of the best waves to be found on its beaches. The activities also extend to horse riding, canoeing and biking.

There are many items you cannot leave South Africa without – wine and diamonds being two of the most obvious purchases. While a diamond is optional, wine should be a priority. Some 200 vineyards lie within two hours drive of Capetown airport and many of the oldest, established around 300 years ago, proudly retain their original Cape Dutch and Georgian architecture. Others have branched out into fully-fledged resorts with hotels and restaurants, health spas, golf courses, live music and theatre. The wine region Vergelegen has been crowned Wine magazine’s top South African winery for the past three years. In the famous winelands of Franschoek and Stellenbosch you can indulge in gourmet food and wine tours. Splendid mountain ranges, orchards and vineyards laden with fruit, and well manicured golf courses are all characteristic of these regions. For the ultimate in luxury, check into La Residence or the Mont Rochelle.

It’s tempting to try and pack as much as possible into your first holiday to South Africa. Given it’s the size of France and Spain combined, it would take months on end to tick off all the main sights. There is the Garden Route, Victoria Falls, more safari reserves than you can count and endless bays to seek out. Once you plan your itinerary, the final decision to make is when to visit. The country has a pleasant climate most of the year with lovely warm sunny days. The seasons are opposite to Ireland so South Africa’s summers run from November to February with hot weather. Winters are generally mild and dry and ideal for hiking, and outdoor pursuits. And this is also the best time for wildlife watching.

FACTBOX

Stay in style in South Africa

WINE REGION: La Residence (www.wildlifeafrica.co.za/laresidence)
Tucked away in the tranquil vineyards of the Franschoek Valley, La Residence will transport its guests to a bygone era, far removed from the bustle of city life. Designed along the lines of a French country château, the chic abode offers beautifully furnished suites. Each provides the ultimate in old-world luxury, decorated with treasures such as fine French antiques, exquisite Persian carpets and delicate Ralph Lauren bed linen.

ON SAFARI: Pumba Beach Reserve (www.pehotels.co.za/pumba)
With its five star game lodges, guests at Pumba have every opportunity to enjoy the ultimate essence of South Africa’s luxury and style. It’s located in the malaria-free Eastern Cape, one hour drive from Port Elizabeth. The Water Lodge comprises of 12 stone-walled, thatched, waterfront cottages all opening onto a private timber deck with outdoor shower and plunge pool overlooking the Kariega Lake. The new Msenge Bush Lodge offers 11 chalets in the thick bush and also boasts a Spa resort.

THE BEACH: Sands Hotel at St Francis Bay
(www.africanpridehotels.com/the-sands-st-francis)
The luxurious African beach house at St. Francis Bay offers understated luxury and style in five exclusive rooms, delicious meals in the thatched restaurant, stunning wines, and a cocktail bar. Each individually decorated bedroom opens out onto a private timber deck from where you can enjoy the breathtaking view of the magnificent, unspoilt ocean below.

CAPETOWN: Mount Nelson (www.mountnelson.co.za)
Mount Nelson is possibly the fanciest hotel in Capetown – a collection of pink-washed classical buildings set in nine acres of tropical gardens right under Table Mountain. The elegant Planet Champagne and Cocktail bar attracts locals as well as hotel guests. The bar spills out onto a magnificent garden terrace, allowing guests to take full advantage of the beautiful African night sky.

Karen Creed, Unravel Travel www.unraveltravel.eu

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Western Cape in South Africa – Experiencing the beauty of Cape Town and all sorts of fun-filled activities that the Western Cape has to offer.
http://www.southafrica.net/sat/content/en/za/western-cape