Hooked on skiing after a week in Tignes, France

The novice skier is challenged on the beautiful French slopes writes Karen Creed

As frustrated skiers arrived back from snow-less holidays earlier this month, I was still convinced that a blanket of the white stuff would await me. The glacier resort of Tignes in the French Alps generally guarantees better ski conditions because of its height above sea level. This, I hoped, coupled with plenty of artificial snow and over 300 kilometres of pistes, would ensure a week of excellent skiing for my boyfriend (the black slope skier) and I (the novice).

While I am known to be disorganised, it paid to be prepared for this holiday. Our boot hire, lift passes and ski school had been pre-booked with Directski so there was very little to do the first morning except make sure we were kitted out with enough layers from head to toe. From day one we fell into a pleasant routine. The early morning wake up calls were compensated by a superb breakfast in the Hotel Montana and the trek to ski school was in no way arduous as we could ski from the hotel directly down to the ski school meeting point. The air was cold but the sun was shining and most importantly there was plenty of fresh snow glistening below our feet.

As a beginner, I soon realised how you should have reasonable expectations about your first day on the slopes. You will fall down a lot, there will be six year olds skiing circles around and you will be alternately exhilarated and terrified. A few weeks of advance practice on the artificial slopes in Kilternan served me well, however. My perfection of the snowplough (a technique to stop) meant I could skip beginners and move on to level one. While I knew how to snowplough, I forgot to mention to my ski instructor I had never been on a chair lift until it was too late. Before I was introduced to my group, I was crashing into them as I fell off the lift, sending their ski poles and mine in all directions. There were plenty more close encounters to follow during the week – many instigated by my clumsiness.

After a rather intense two days on the gentle slopes it was time for my group to test our pins on the more challenging blue runs. Peter’s group of skilled skiers was already tackling off piste slopes, which, the sheer steepness of, made me feel nauseous. After three hours of morning ski school, our legs ached with exhaustion and our tummies rumbled for nourishing food. While there was an abundance of restaurants to choose from, we were fond of Restaurant L’Arbina, mainly because it was a ten second walk from the slopes. The first few days we enjoyed al fresco lunches in the winter sun before rushing back to the slopes. Towards the end of the week, we tended to lull over lunch for much longer, keeping ourselves warm with piping hot chocolate and vin chaud.

Going away with a good skier did concern me at first as I wondered would we see each other that often. Although Peter was very willing to teach me how to ski, I thought ski school was a wiser option. In the afternoons, however, he helped me perfect my parallel turns – with just a few minor clashes! Then while he went off to tackle the black slopes with his equally adventurous ski school friend, I was content to remain on the lower slopes. Although I enjoyed the sociable morning lessons, I also appreciated the more solitary skiing in the afternoon amid a stunning setting.

Once the ski boots came off in the evening, we made good use of our hotel’s leisure facilities. After a swim in the outdoor heated pool, we relaxed our sore muscles in the sauna and Jacuzzi. It was time then to think about working up an appetite for dinner as a five course meal awaited us every evening. There were three traditional French restaurants to choose from in Hotel Montana – so we alternated between them depending on our daily food cravings. While we were both a little ‘cheesed out’ after a night of raclette (a traditional cheese dish), there was always a new delicacy to tempt our palates. The most decadent restaurant of the three, La Rotisserie, was particularly appealing with delicious roast spit chicken, seasoned scallops, lobster and a dessert menu that hit all the right buttons – chocolate mousse, crème brulee and raspberry cheesecake.

Like most others in their twenties, we were eager to partake in après ski. One of the first nights we joined a pub crawl of the most frequented bars in Tignes which included the aptly named Jam Bar (a capacity of 30 customers helped ensure it was always packed to the door). Angel, Loop and Scotty’s were the other resort hotspots. While Tignes may not hold the ‘party until 6am’ banner, it still has a varied nightlife. On the nights we were too tired to venture out, we relaxed in the lively hotel bar. Bed before dawn ensured we were not waking up with sore heads most mornings.

After our five days of ski school, we had time to try out other snow activities like ice skating and bobsled rides, but we were too hooked on skiing. On my last day I bravely attempted a perilous red run, but a few near clashes with snowboarders confirmed that I need a few more outings on the slopes before I can call myself a competent skier!

For ski holidays to Tignes or other resorts in Europe contact Directski on 1890 201 205 or visit www.directski.com