From Isabel Conway: Our speed boat – little more than a rubber dingy – lurched high into the air over yet another oncoming wave, moving us ever closer to all those tons of water avalanching down. Bobbing like a cork skirting the vast torrents of one of the world’s great wonders, the adrenaline rush was mixed with blind terror as we tossed about underneath cascades forming the mighty Iguazu Falls bordering Argentina and Brazil.
To explore South America’s most famous cataracts close up we had taken what’s known as the “Gran Aventura” voyage, a roller coaster of a ride to end them all. A spare pair of dry knickers and socks would have come in handy by the time we emerged from somewhere far too close for comfort to the Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo) ‘shaken’ and definitely ‘stirred‘ by the extraordinary force of mother nature bearing down on us. They say that once your shoes are squelching and your entrance ticket is a soggy mass in your pocket you have truly witnessed the awesome power of Iguazu. Just imagine 275 waterfalls, shaped by 120 million years of geological history, spanning more than two miles and equivalent to four Niagara falls.
As natural wonders go, Iguazu falls, a UNESCO world heritage site, less than a 2 hour flight from Buenos Aires, in the sub tropical wilderness of the province of Misiones are epic. You make the pilgrimage primarily for the Falls. So it is a nice surprise to be plunged into one of the most bio diverse national park on the planet. Surrounding the falls is terrain sheltering 2,000 different kinds of plants, 200 species of trees, 85 magnificent varieties of orchid and 450 bird species including the exotic toucan. The wildlife here ranges from ocelot to tapir, among 80 different kinds of mammals including the elusive Jaguar and Puma. Luckily the mosquitoes, listed among the 2,000 varieties of insect were not yet active in early September (late winter in these parts, usually dry with temperatures pleasantly early to mid 20s)
To save time, and see as much as possible of the park, plus a visit to view the Falls from the Brazilian side, more spectacular close up from the viewing stands, we bought a tour of the falls and park as part of our package. A early morning pick up at our hotel on the outskirts of the frontier town of Puerto Iguazu had us eventually snarled up in a traffic jam of jeeps and mini buses on a heavily forested track, all making for the entrance to the park. Taking in the Brazilian side of the Falls, which is a must, I stayed three days but could easily have enjoyed an extra one, exploring less well known stretches of this remarkable wilderness in the quiet of morning or late evening. With over over one million visitors a year, finding solitude in the park can be a challenging.
The pilgrimage to the Iguazu national park and Falls in the furthermost north east corner of Argentina is easiest to arrange from the colourful noisy capitol Buenos Aires, most travelers first port of call in the country. Buenos Aires is a mixture of old style Europe and Latin America and its huge sprawl is divided up into a dozen or more barrios (neighbourhoods) all with their own sense of identity and past from tumble down faded glory to modern high rise architecture.
Beef and Argentina’s equally renowned red wine are both a simple meal, enjoyed everywhere in this vast and fascinating country and part of a gastronomic ritual that goes to the heart of Argentine pride, tradition and hospitality. It’s impossible to imagine one without the other. The average annual intake of beef is nearly 60 kilograms per head and 48 liters of wine. Leading wine exporters, they reputedly keep the best Mendoza vintages at home.
Another famous Argentine export is known as ‘the three minute love affair’: The tango, best described as a sensual meander of feet around feet, human dressage and electric body chemistry danced with your heart pressed against that of your partner. The entertainment has started – you’ve guessed it – with beef, a three course meal of steak in different guises, at Tango Porteno, a popular city centre Buenos Aires ‘tango for export’ show, aimed at visitors (approx €50 buys dinner and show) It is all unashamedly touristy, yet the famous dance of passion and haunting music seduces us completely. By the next day some of us are enrolling for €4 euro tango classes having bought sexy footwear on Calle Suipacha, determined to learn those lethal back kick flourishes and imitate the sensuous ritual of tango. This coupling of split skirts and slick suits inside Buenos Aires tango halls is the very air the Portenos (locals) breathe and nothing quite sums up the passion and soul of this great city of 3 million inhbitants like the soulful, intense and vibrant tango. Nightlife starts late and restaurants are still packed with diners after midnight, with discos and nightclubs rarely getting going before 1 or 2 am. Come breakfast time – for most of us – Portenos can be seen enjoying a pizza or even ice cream at one of the numerous Italian styled ice cream, salons as they reluctantly throw in the towel for the night in acity that never seems to sleep.
Travel File
Best time to visit: Spring is a great time to go, from September into November or autumn between March and May. Summer from December to February can be extremely hot and muggy.
Money: Argentina is not the bargain it once was. But you can enjoy a succulent great tasting steak with a bottle of wine for two and still have change from euro 40 in a decent restaurant. Hotels in Buenos Aires are bargains if you look and book on line. By booking on line we stayed at the high end Claridge Hotel www.claridge.com.ar on Tucaman 536 in downtown Microcentro for Euros 90 for a twin room with a lavish buffet breakfast thrown in. Modeling itself on London’s Claridges – at a fraction of the price – impeccably turned out concierges in tall hats and white gloves, set the tone as did a English tudor style restaurant and a spacious outdoor heated pool. The range of accommodation in Buenos Aires is immense, boutique hotels , trendy guesthouses and budget B&Bs as well as international chains abound and compared with other world capitols prices are very reasonable. Belfast man Kieran Rooney owns a intimate small hotel dating from the belle époque period, Rooneys Boutique Hotel www.rooneysboutiquehotel.com They offer free airport pick up, tango classes for guests and will even arrange tickets for soccer fans to watch Boca juniors playing at home in the colorful La Boca neighborhood.
Shopping throws up lots more bargains A top quality full length sheepskin coat was on sale for under 200 euro, fashionable short leather jackets from 80 euro and nicely designed bags and boots for around 40 to 70 euro. Look out for Leather luggage and ponchos woven with llama wool and be sure to buy a pair of tango shoes – you cannot but be tempted by the sexiest footwear in the world here.
Getting there: Argentinas Aerolineas www.aerolineas.com.ar has daily flights ex Madrid direct to Buenos Aires,, Iberia www.iberia.com from Madrid. Air France www.airfrance.ie from Paris.
Further information: www.bue.gov.ar see also www.argentina.travel Buenos Aires travel agencies and hotels arrange a two or three night all in tour to the Iguazu Falls, including return flights, transfers from the airport to hotels in Iguazu, accommodation and a tour (usually 2 days) of the Falls and national park. We paid US$450 which included 4 star hotel accommodation in Iguazu.
Sights: Recoleto Cemetery, Last resting place of Eva Peron at whose mausoleum flowers and votive offerings are still laid. Plaza de Mayo, where Argentina’s worst and proudest moments in history unfolded. Las Madres – the defiant mothers of youth who disappeared during the military dictatorship maintain a vigil 35 years on.Wander from Plaza Dorrego through the barrios of San Telmo and La Boca, the mythical old south. Be sure to experience one of the milongas, dancehalls where all ages and shapes take to the floor showing how the sensuous movements of tango can look so effortless and graceful . The outdoor dance at La Glorieta in the Belgrano district is all stilettos and seamed stockings. Multicolored ‘El Caminito’ streets of zinc are at the heart of La Boca, close to La Bombonera, home of Boca juniors, where soccer legend Diego Maradona began his career.
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