Budapest, a tale of two cities

Anyone who visits Budapest, Hungary will get two cities for the price of one writes Karen Creed.

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This time of year as winter yields to spring, Budapest is set alight. However it does not matter what month you visit the Hungarian capital – spa baths and spires, hearty food and quirky shops all make it an intriguing escape. Budapest is often referred to as a big bathtub as it has sulphuric waters that bubble up from the thermal springs below the city. This asset alone makes it one of the best places in the world for a good soak Add to that a direct two hour flight from Dublin, reasonable prices and a stunning setting, and you can see why it takes little convincing to visit this dynamic Eastern European capital.

Though built up, Budapest has green spaces and I was lucky enough to be staying in the very centre of the biggest one on Margaret Island. The Danubius Spa Hotel is like a one-stop shop with a dental surgery, cosmetic clinic, and spa area among other facilities. If you are tempted by a nip and tuck or teeth whitening it is readily available here and at a low cost. I opted for the less invasive Spa treatments, starting with a Salt Cave experience. Ideal for people with respiratory problems it involves being put in a cool, soothing room with fake stalactites hanging from the ceiling while fairy lights gently change the colour of the surroundings. A half hour later I floated out of the room having being woken from a deep slumber. Next came a massage which I initially feared as the surly Hungarian masseuse looked like he was ready to pummel me. Instead he swiftly rid my body of all aches and knots and soon after I was bubbling in the jacuzzi.

The Romans were first to develop the baths in Budapest and the city has some of the world’s finest Turkish baths, all Ottoman architecture, huge octagonal pools and stained glass windows. Most visitors look for pure soggy, steamy, flotational relaxation. For a typically Hungarian spectacle, Széchenyi bath in the City Park is where people play chess outdoors in steaming water. It is the largest public bath and open since 1913. As well as bathing in hot springs, you are encouraged to drink the sulphuric water (which tastes awful but is apparently wonderful for detoxing). After this and some time in the aromatheraphy scented saunas and mud chambers, you will be feeling as good as new. Once you are pampered to baby softness, the best way to see Hungary’s capital is on a sightseeing tour along the Danube. The river bisects the capital, and cruising along its 28km stretch is an ideal way to take in the story of how modern day Budapest evolves. It’s like two cities for the price of one as you have the ancient Buda district complete with its charming castle and on the other side of the river the modern metropolis of Pest. Most visitors tend to soak up the history of Castle Hill in Buda, then take a rest in Pest with its green spaces and restaurants.

Budapest offers a slice of East European charm that has not been ruined by bland communist architecture, and the city still boasts many of the most beautiful buildings. Although the outskirts of Budapest can be somewhat drab, it is compensated by a city of charming squares, rattling trams and peace and quiet – punctuated only by music. Andrassy Street adds to Budapest’s list of World Heritage sites, and leads to the splendid Heroes’ Square, like a boulevard often compard to the Champs Elysee in Paris. The restaurants stretch way beyond the stereotypical expectations of goulash. There is an incredible restaurant and bar scene with Franz Liszt Square being one of the most popular areas at night. The csárda is the most distinctive type of Hungarian venue – an old-style tavern offering traditional cuisine and beverages while Borozó is like a cozy old-fashioned wine tavern. Two of the most enticing restaurant options include Apetito in the Castle Buda district and Karma in Franz Lizst Square.

Although Budapest is a tempting couples break it is also geared towards younger visitors. There’s the railway in the Buda Hills where kids can get to drive a steam train, the captivating Labyrinth of Buda Castle under the Várhegy (Castle Hill) and fun hands-on science at the Palace of Miracles. There is also the impressive zoo and the largest ice skating rink in Europe. Opera and theatre is also an integral part of Hungarian culture and you can purchase a ticket for as little as €7. The Budapest Card is another worthwhile purchase if you are there for the weekend. It’s available in 48 and 72 hour editions, and for around €15 to €20 respectively, tourists can receive free travel on public transport, and free admission to museums. Whether it’s sightseeing, dining or pampering, Budapest is one of the cheapest city breaks I have taken in a long time, a big plus given our current economic climate.

For flights or package holidays to Budapest email your name and contact details to bookings@unraveltravel.eu

Karen Creed, Unravel Travel www.unraveltravel.eu